Ralph & Lahni de Amicis, Napa, Sonoma, San Francisco
Sebastopol as a Wine Destination
In the past few years some remarkable wineries have popped up around Sebastopol, a charming little Sonoma town due west of Santa Rosa. It is the crossroads of Hwy 12, just before it ends in the west, and Gravenstein Hwy, as it travels towards Guernesville on the Russian River.
This is an area of low rolling hills just to the south of the River and if you continue on towards the west you enter the Redwoods and Maritime Pines that border the ocean and Bodega Bay.
There are four wineries there that impress the heck out of us. If you continue west from Sebastopol you’ll come to the Freestone Vineyards, owned by the Joseph Phelps winery in Napa. They wanted to produce superior Pinot Noir, and they chose this site next to Occidental Hwy to plant. The winery building is quite impressive, but they aren’t able to taste there. Instead they built a wonderful little tasting room across the road and just off the road, next to a well known artisan baker.
They are about 10 to 15 minutes from the nearest winery, but they are more than worth the visit. The wines are up to the Joseph Phelps standards, and they possess those wonderful qualities that make Sonoma Coast such a great place for the Burgundy varietals.
If you head north from Sebastopol you come to Merry Edwards. They have been making incredible wines in this area for many years, but they didn’t have any place to taste. Last year they opened their new winery and tasting room at the side of Gravenstein Hwy. It is a modern building that is easy to find, with a garden behind and gracious, sit down tasting rooms. The only part of the experience that is off putting is that you arrive in their offices, at a low desk, and then you go to the tasting room next door.
There is no place to wait, so I suspect that in the chaos of a day of wine soaked people arriving this could get a little uncomfortable for the visitors. This is the only winery that I can think of that does this, and as you can guess, in my opinion it’s not the most welcoming strategy. But the staff is great. Once you get in the tasting rooms they are comfortable, and of course the wines are wonderful.
I don’t know how many times I’ve waxed on about Lynmar winery. This is just ten minutes north of Sebastopol, around the corner from Merry Edwards. It is one of the prettiest wineries in the Russian River Valley, and the staff and the wines are great. It is rare that I visit that part of Sonoma with clients without dropping in for a tasting.
A long time favorite in that area, and the farthest north from Sebastopol, although just by a bit, is Iron Horse Vineyards. Of the four they have the most reasonable price point, and the only one that makes a significant contribution to the world of sparkling wines. They are down a long, narrow road off of Gravenstein Hwy, over a rickety bridge and up a long driveway of Palms and Olive trees.
You can’t say that they do a lot for hospitality, and yet the experience is authentic Sonoma, and that’s a good thing. The tasting bar is outside under a lean to, at the top of a hillside of vines and fruit trees, with remarkable views of the Green Valley. The dumpling bucket is the grass, and the whole feeling is relaxed and very social. So, if you’re touring near Sebastopol these are some suggestions.
By the way, the downtown Whole Foods is tiny, but a good place for picnic supplies. And, if you want a restaurant, Underwoods in Graton is my favorite.
Ralph & Lahni de Amicis are authors of the Amicis Winery Guides, and owners of Amicis Tours. They are authors of over twenty books on health, design, business and travel. Their iPhone Apps, The Napa Valley Wine Tour, and The Sonoma Winery Tour are a tour guides approach to these beautiful area, complete with 1000’s of photos and insights. Their articles and products can be found on the sites http://www.amicistours.com and http://www.spaceandtime.com
Call 707-235-2648 for Tours, Books & Seminars Copyright Ralph & Lahni de Amicis 2011 All tasting fees, hours, wine lists, etc are subject to change.
