Winemakers
looking at Urns in the Earth
Summary; There are many methods for making wine and some
modern winemakers are returning to the most ancient looking for a better
product.
One of today’s most interesting, although small, wine
movements is modern winemakers pursuing the ancient method of making wine in
clay urns buried under the ground. This system is widespread in the republic of
Georgia, but there are important European winemakers who are adopting this approach.
To say the wine is made in underground urns is overly
simplified. Whole grape bunches are crushed together, then excess stems are
racked out and the mixture is drained into the urns that are cooled by the
earth. The natural yeast transforms the sugar into alcohol gradually. The punch
downs, where the skins are driven down into the juice to infuse it with color
and flavor, are less frequent. When fermentation ends the urn is sealed with the
flavor filled debris settles to the bottom. It is tasted periodically and in
the springtime the clear juice is drained off the top.
In Georgia they drink this springtime wine. To get good wine
you have to start with good grapes because you don’t have the flavors of the
barrels or filtering systems to correct any mistakes. The western winemakers using
this method can store this wine in barrels or tanks and let the flavors develop.
But in Georgia the wine isn’t shipped
because they would have to add preservatives, and they pride themselves on making
a healthful, natural product.
If you have ever spent much time in a modern winery you will
recognize the huge differences from the methods employed today. Modern
winemaking is an intense separation of the grapes from the vines. In premium
wineries grapes are de-stemmed and carefully sorted so that no MOG (Material Other
than Grapes) gets into the stainless steel tanks. Chemicals are added to kill
the native yeasts and manufactured yeasts are introduced that very rapidly
convert the grape juice into wine while standing up to the excessive alcohol
that high sugar, over ripe grape produce. The juice is carefully monitored in
stainless steel tanks using chillers to maintain the correct temperatures.
Later it is flavored with oak barrels and sterile filtered before bottling.
Modern winemaking is done with scientific precision, and the
process is more similar to a factory than a kitchen. It is believed that by
analysis and control they can minimize the risk and attain an international
standard that will appeal to clients around the world. With an entire harvest at
stake of course the growers tend to follow the expert’s advice.
But, if this is true, why are some of the older methods (and
that includes the traditions that have made Biodynamics popular) making a
comeback? Because they preserve the flavor and vitality of the place! If the
modern methods remove the signature of the land, what makes it unique; it
obliterates the character of that culture. Some of these winemakers feel that
the older methods, less scrubbed and filtered, also make a healthier, more life
filled product. I’m not an expert on this, but the winemakers who are pursuing
thes ancient methods are, and that makes you think.
Ralph & Lahni de Amicis are authors of the Amicis Winery
Guides, and owners of Amicis Tours and Cuore Libre Publishing. They are authors
of over twenty books on health, design and travel. Their products can be found
on the sites http://www.amicistours.com
and http://www.spaceandtime.com
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